Chef John Stamatakis is the new owner of Kangaroo Island's famed arboreal restaurant The Fig Tree which is soon to open for its summer season. John tells SALIFE about a new Mediterranean dining experience with foraged ingredients and his hobby of spearfishing.

As told to Ben Kelly

BEN How did you come to work at the Fig Tree, John?

JOHN I’ve been holidaying at Kangaroo Island for many years, and I’ve always loved it over here. I worked here briefly a couple of years ago and I’ve been keen to come back. Finally, I was able to make it happen, and I started with the restaurant in November last year (2023).

BEN What can we expect from your menu at the Fig Tree this summer?

JOHN We offer an ever-changing Mediterranean-inspired feast. It’s a 2.5-hour dining experience at $140 per person, where you can relax and enjoy thoughtfully prepared KI and SA produce. We incorporated foraged coastal ingredients and hyper-local seafood. A range of KI wines and spirits will be available along with great producers from the mainland. I draw on my time running Italian kitchens such as Midnight Spaghetti and Madre, as well as a stint at Udaberri.

BEN How are you enjoying working in the remote location?

JOHN It’s still a pinch-me moment to be living and working on Kangaroo Island – it’s such a such a special and beautiful place. We are very busy, but as soon as the apron’s off, the wetsuit goes on and I’m down at the beach spearfishing or swimming; it’s a good life. I will be here until February and then chef Alana Brabin will take over the kitchen for the rest of the season.

BEN Where have you worked as a chef previously?

JOHN I was most recently a chef at Madre, an Italian restaurant in the city. Before that, I was with Crown and Anchor, Roxy’s and Chateau Apollo for about seven years, including as executive chef. I helped to open Midnight Spaghetti years back, too. In between that, I have done pop-ups at all sorts of festivals over the years, which I really enjoy. I’ve also got a little business called Mould Farmer, making traditionally fermented Japanese products (soy sauce, mirin, vinegars, shio koji), which are available exclusively at the Fig Tree as souvenirs.

BEN How do you describe your style of cooking?

JOHN It’s a push-pull of tradition and innovation; I’ve always been a keen student of fermentation. The thing I like about being a chef, aside from the fact you are feeding and nourishing people, is that you’re exposing them to things they mightn’t normally experience. That’s the idea behind some of the food I’m doing at the Fig Tree. We have some exciting dishes that people won’t have tried before.

BEN What do you get up to when you’re not in the kitchen?

JOHN There is an abundance of fish here and so I’ve picked up spearfishing as a hobby and I’m trying to get out there as much as possible. I’m still learning and figuring it out. I’m not very elegant or graceful in the water but it’s a lot of fun. It’s a whole different world under the water. The feeling of vulnerability, being out in nature, is something you don’t often get to experience these days, and I think it’s good for you.

BEN Outside of The Enchanted Fig Tree, what are your favourite spots to eat on the island?

JOHN Sadly, two of my favourite restaurants were damaged by fires – The Shy Wren in Penneshaw and The Odd Plate in Kingscote. But my favourite place to eat on the island is Sunset Food and Wine. Chef Jack Ingram and his partner Vanessa Cu are doing great stuff there. For great coffee, it’s got to be Cactus in Kingscote.

BEN Can you describe the experience of dining at the Fig Tree?

JOHN Firstly, you walk into this restaurant space under the boughs and leaves of this lush 120-year-old fig tree. On balmy nights in January, you can get around in shorts and a short-sleeve shirt, even at night, when it takes on a whole different appearance. On a clear night the stars are incredible, but the lunches are awesome as well – you can finish your lunch at three o’clock and walk across to the beach.

 

This is an edited version of an article that first appeared in the January 2024 edition of SALIFE Magazine. The Fig Tree season opens on November 6, 2024 and runs until April 5, 2025. Lunch is $140 per person.